Art on Catalina
by Anne Kupillas
Catalina Island is fairly small and is a perfect weekend getaway spot, which is why we planned our next art retreat for two days (April 8-10 2022). But I had a surprise day to myself, so I took the ferry to Avalon for the day this week, to indulge in some creative “me time” and explore the artistic side of the island.
Avalon occupies the southernmost portion of LA County and is located on the Island of Catalina.
First, a little geography
Santa Catalina Island is one of California’s Channel Islands, an eight-island archipelago off the coast of Southern California, from Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties to Los Angeles County. From Long Beach, Avalon is about 42 miles offshore. I took the Catalina Express to get there, which is an easy boat ride from Long Beach, lasting an hour and costing about $70 round trip. Boats also embark from Dana Point and San Pedro. Private planes and helicopters can transport visitors to the Airport in the Sky and helipad, respectively. And of course, private boaters are welcome in the harbor.
Avalon is clean and pretty, with a stunningly picturesque U-shaped harbor, palm and eucalyptus trees, and is a welcome respite and laid-back landing spot for sailors and day trippers alike. It also is a mecca for artists and art lovers. The town and surrounding island offer plenty of things to explore, eat, drink, and relax – and spark your creative juices.
Welcome to Avalon!
Avalon is clean and pretty, with a stunningly picturesque U-shaped harbor, palm and eucalyptus trees, and is a welcome respite and laid-back landing spot for sailors and day trippers alike. It also is a mecca for artists and art lovers. The town and surrounding island offer plenty of things to explore, eat, drink, and relax – and spark your creative juices.
I disembarked at the ferry pier to a foggy harbor and barely visibly landscape – which was stunningly beautiful. Thinking it would be a better bet to explore the art scene first and try to get in some plein air painting time later, I headed to the galleries and museum in downtown Avalon. As you explore this small, walkable town, the first thing you’ll notice is the unique tiles and mosaic works that are almost literally everywhere! Embedded into the low walls along the beach, placed at even spaces along the park benches, gracing buildings and fountains, and adorning the welcome sign, these decorative tiles are the artistic gems of Catalina. They feature decorative designs and local flora and fauna (my favorite is the seal who looks like he’s saying hello amongst a sea of kelp and fish), as well as touristy vignettes and historical scenes of the island. I could spend days just investigating and taking them all in! Not to mention sketching them (so I took many, many photos, to do some sketching from home).
Sun breaking through the fog atop a bluff. It was going to be a sunny So Cal day!
Don’t miss spots include the Cabrillo Fountain, a focal point in the center of town, and the tile wall on Casino Way. I also bought a guide book, “The Jewels of Avalon,” by Larry Harris, which includes a handy map and details of all the tile sites in Avalon ($9, available at most gift shops on the island and here).
Wrigley Fountain, and a local seagull.
Galleries
There are plenty of shops and galleries in the small town of Avalon, and my first stop was Afishinados, an art gallery with just an incredible amount of local art inspired by Catalina - and, you guessed it - fish!
Located in the Metropole Marketplace, facing the waterfront.
Everything in Afishinados is sourced not imported, and every piece has been carefully curated and vetted by Karen King. I got a tour by Monica, who was very knowledgable about all the artwork. Original paintings, prints and sculptures by talented artists like EJ Williams, Patricia Doyle, Chris Aarness, Marion Dies, and Nick Mayer grace the space and are all available for sale. There’s something for everyone, from rustic and whimsical, to fine art, plein air painting, sculpture, ornaments and jewelry.
Me getting in trouble at the Catalina Tile Company shop.
Next, I walked over to the Catalina Pottery & Tile Company, located in an old bank building, and sporting the only original Catalina tile on the island. This shop is a gem, both for shoppers and pottery collectors, as it sells original Catalina Pottery and Tile from 1927 to 1937. Not familiar with Catalina Pottery? During its heyday, the signature styles and colors of this locally made pottery (made from island clay and created and sold on the island) was prolific and popular. Today, originals are highly sought after by collectors and history enthusiasts. The owner, Steven Hoefs, has a museum-like “vault” in the back of the shop which will blow your mind – full of original serving ware, tile and figurines from the 20s and 30s.
The Vault - fitting for a former bank building.
I get excited over pottery.
Vintage Catalina Tile.
Looking for something more affordable? Artist Robin Cassidy makes tiles with a nod to the original styles, based on iconic scenes which you’ve seen around the island, and “tiny tiles,” perfect for souvenirs. Prefer to wear a piece of pottery? Jewelry maker Sophia Palmer crafts unique one-of-a-kind sterling silver pieces from tumbled Catalina Island pottery sherds collected from Avalon’s own beaches (bracelets, necklaces earrings and rings starting at $80). And don’t forget to pick up a copy of the “Catalina Island Pottery Collectors Guide” by Steven & Aisha Hoefs ($10).
After a photo op in front of the Catalina Island Museum (closed Mondays), I made my way down the abundantly tiled Casino Way to the Avalon Casino. This 1400-foot walkway leading from Crescent Avenue to the Casino is one of the most exceptional sights on the island. The walkway features eight benches and a wall decorated with single tiles featuring island animals, birds, and sea life. It also has spectacular multi-paneled tile murals that show early life on the island, and animal and sea life . They’re all incredible contemporary works of art, done in the style of the 20s, but my two favorites are “portholes” that showcase views of a harbor seal, calico bass and kelp, and two bison with their calf amongst an inner island landscape of Nopales cacti and Devil’s Poker plants. These murals were done by artist Richard Keit of Ojai’s RTK Studios. Mary Kennedy (also of RTK) and John Gabriel Beckman designed the bulk of the other tiles and 24 extraordinary murals on this walkway.
Casino Way, bordered by its famous green handrail.
Last of all, check out the Bay of Seven Moons mural, created in 1991 by Avalon’s Will Richards. This tile mural shaped in a half moon tells the story of the natives of the island of Catalina, however, the name is somewhat of a mystery to this day.
Avalon Casino
At the end of Casino Way, you come upon the casino itself. When I first visited Avalon in 1998, I thought this casino was a gambling venue. It’s actually a former dance hall turned massive theatre, event space and historical attraction. One of the best tours offered on the island, the Casino building itself is elaborately decorated in the Art Deco style of the late 1920s. Built in 1928 by the Wrigley Family, the casino was the first major project to utilize large amounts of products from the tile and pottery plant: hundreds of thousands of bricks and tiles, glazed and unglazed, solid colors and decorated. And oh, the decoration! There are colorful geometric tiles on the floors, the walls and at the entrance. My favorite art at the casino is the entry. LA-based artist John Gabriel Beckman designed murals depicting stylized marine life and mythical creatures, including the mermaid which is featured on the center mural above the ticket booth, at the front of the casino. This fantastical mural and eight other “marine gardens” full of kelp and creatures, were originally meant to be executed on glazed tiles, however, in the end, they ended up being painted on the concrete walls by artists under Beckman’s direction. They’re exceptional examples of the decorative, playful and graceful stylized artwork of the era.
I loved this whimsical seahorse with a trident tail!
Also, take note of the building’s intricate pendant lights, sconces and architectural features, which just beg to be sketched. So that was my cue to get painting!
Sitting outside in the sun, I sketched the casino building in pencil and watercolor from afar, and then moved closer to draw the fancy little cupola atop the domed roof. Working en plein air has its particular challenges, like finding the right views, weather changes, and staying out of the way of tourists. Luckily, the weather cooperated and it wasn’t crowded. I did a few sketches then walked back towards the center of town to Middle Beach, to sketch the Pleasure Pier, also known as the Green Pier. It’s charming silhouette makes for a compelling subject (as did the casino), and many local artists and visitors have taken their turn at capturing it. The busy hills, trees and buildings of Avalon town in the background were a challenging but I found it to be an interesting and fun exercise!
Plein Air Painting can be a balancing act - literally, balancing sketchbook, palette and water cup!
An ink and wash detail of the cupola, below and quick compositional sketch in watercolor, above.
The iconic Green Pier, with town of Avalon and hills behind.
I can’t wait to visit Avalon again and do some more painting and exploring. I will be leading an art retreat on Catalina in April – April 8-10,2022 – and the following weekend, Avalon is host to the annual Catalina Spring Art Faire & Crafts Festival. There is also the Catalina Festival of Art, which is hosted by the Catalina Art Association each September. In its 62nd year, this 3-day festival on the waterfront is free and one of the longest-running shows in California.
Until then, I toast you, Catalina, with this location libation, the “Buffalo Milk” cocktail (made of mostly ice cream and vodka). ::chef’s kiss::
Sunset watching waiting for the ferry home — farewell, Catalina - just for now!
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Photo credits to @AliceleFae and Anne Kupillas